Le Bernardin Reviewed

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I get the rap of being a food snob, but it really isn't totally fair. I do enjoy fine dining and I am blessed to do it in some fantastic establishments, but I also mark on my calendar the day the McRib is coming back to McDonald's each year. However, this review will do little to break out of my reputation as a foodie, as it does not get more food snobby than Le Bernardin; and it doesn't get much better, either.This 51st Street haven for New York's fine diners is couched perfectly between 6th and 7th Avenues, and represents one of the true treats of city dining. I have been several times and never done the tasting, as the natural sequence of courses is a bit of a tasting in and of itself.We started with the Raw course, a Chef's special chilled beausoleil with pickled shallot seaweed water gelee. The flavors were surprising, light, and fresh. The temptation was strong to order a half-dozen, but I wisely resisted in anticipation of what was to come.

20131019-181708.jpgThe Almost Raw course involved classic Le Bernardin creativity ... Geoduck: Thinly shaved giant clam with lemon confit and piquillo pepper in pesto broth. At this point I desire some bread to smear in the sauce, as I feel like it would be better for my reputation than picking up the plate and licking what was left. I did neither.

20131019-181849.jpgThe Barely Touched course for me was Charred Octopus, something I had in one form or another several times last week. This came with a green olive and black garlic emulsion on a sundried tomato sauce vierge. The meat was splendid, but I would have preferred no sundried tomato flavor, and more green olive/black garlic love.20131019-182349.jpg

You have no right to go to the Land for your entree at Le Bern though they do have some lamb and duck entrees that I am sure are wonderful. But this is French-influenced seafood, and I stayed pure with the Pan Roasted Monkfish, complete with mushroom puree, black trumpets, and armagnac black pepper sauce. It was as perfect as it looks and sounds.20131019-182457.jpg

And for good caloric measure, we concluded our evening with a Chocolate Mille-Feuille, caramelized phyllio, thyme gelee, and salted milk chocolate ice cream. I am an entree and pre-meal diner, not a dessert guy; but this changed that for seven straight minutes. No letdown, and no anxiousness to get the check and depart; just slow and thorough appreciation for each bite of heaven. 20131019-182539.jpg

The bottom line on Le Bernardin is that the entire experience is as delightful as you can hope to have this side of heaven. The wait stuff is not pretentious or New York rude - not at all. They are professional and classy as you would expect, but they are menu-educated and very accommodative. The experience may be a "once in a lifetime" visit for many (George Soros apparently just did his pre-wedding dinner there), but should you be the type who is willing to spend significant discretionary dollars on an excursion like this, you will rarely experience a culinary treat more worthy of your funds.And if this whole deal isn't for you, the McRib comes back in six weeks ...

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